|
Make Your Own Cheese
By Michelle Branco
Cheese. Since that lucky moment some ten thousand years ago when someone
figured out that cow’s milk stored in a stomach took on an entirely different
and delicious form, human creativity has created thousands of variations of
cheese.
The story of cheese is the story of the land from which it comes. The type of
animal raised and the particular flavor of the pasture on which it fed begin the
story, but there is a great deal more to be learned. Salty cheeses are typical
of the Middle East; cheeses born in the more temperate and humid European
climate need less salt. Areas with abundant pastures create the opportunity for
excess production of milk that then needs to be traded. Trade beyond a small
local area requires preservation and ease of storage. Sophisticated cheese
making requires a safe, long-term space where the airflow and humidity is
stable. All of these things go a long way toward explaining how cheese became
such an important product in some areas (namely Western Europe) and a markedly
less important, yet still delicious, one in others.
Cheese in its simplest form is milk that is heated and acidified so that the
casein protein in the cheese coagulates and forms a curd. Rennet (that magic
enzyme found in the stomach of ruminants) allows larger and firmer curds to be
formed, although acid alone is also used for some cheeses.
The heating of milk helps to break down the proteins that cause irritation in
the gut and trigger allergic reactions in those susceptible, making cheese
generally more easily digested than fresh milk. Cheeses that get their acidity
from a bacterial culture are also lower in lactose than fresh milk, as this
sugar is what the bacteria digest as they ferment the milk. Ripened firm
cheeses, like cheddar, contain only about five percent of the lactose found in
fresh milk.
Fermentation is not always part of the cheese-making process. Fresh cheeses are
found in many cultures and, while some rely on bacteria to create acidity, many
simply use acids like lemon juice. Fresh cheeses are simple for the home cook to
make and provide a tasty source of protein and fat. The downside is that they do
not keep any better than fresh milk.
Cheeses that are fermented use a variety of cultures to obtain the specific
flavor and texture of the particular variety being made. For example, the big
bubbles typical of Swiss cheese are a gift from the bacteria Propionibacter
shermani. This bacterium creates large amounts of carbon dioxide that are then
trapped within the cheese as it firms. Cheeses made from raw milk often require
no additional culture to be added – the bacterial strains particular to the
place where the cheese is made are those found in the cheese of that region.
Today, cheese makers can purchase commercially prepared cultures for many types
of cheese without relying on what is in their milk or in the air.
While traditional cheese-makers likely knew nothing of the Latin names of the
particular strains they nurtured in their cheeses, today’s research into
beneficial bacteria shows that many of the strains used in cheese-making have
important roles in maintaining gut health in humans. The gassy Swiss cheese
bacteria, for example, is particularly good at breaking down fats in milk and
has been studied for its protective properties against colon cancer.
After the rennet is added, the curds come together and are then cut and strained
from the whey. (Yes, Miss Muffet was a true story!) The whey is watery and
translucent and can be used in other cooking that calls for milk. When cheese is
cultured, the whey contains abundant amounts of live bacteria. This whey can be
used as a starter in other types of lacto-fermented foods, such as sauerkraut
and pickles. Once the curds are separated from the whey, they may be rinsed for
milder flavor, heated again to draw out more moisture, or stretched to provide a
smooth stringy curd, as with the famous mozzarella.
Cheeses that are aged after straining have a significantly longer shelf
life and far greater variety. The ageing or ripening process not only
improves storage, but also flavor and texture, adding depth and complexity
and reducing the rubbery bite of unripened firm cheese. Sometimes,
additional bacteria or mold are added at this stage – either on the surface
or into the body of the cheese. Blue cheeses, such as Stilton or Roquefort,
have both molds and bacteria – the blue veins are mold introduced into the
cheese. Surface bacteria are sometimes allowed to settle from the air, while
other times they are applied with a “wash.”
Regardless of the simplicity or sophistication of a particular cheese,
the freshness of the milk with which it begins and the cheese maker’s gentle
hands are the two constants. As with many staple foods, modern cooks have
lost not only the skills needed to make cheese, but the confidence that
these foods can be made at home at all. While the home cook likely won’t be
turning out Camembert the first time out of the gate, it is not only
possible to make a simple, fresh cheese easily, giving it a try may
introduce a whole new world of kitchen craft.
Homemade Ricotta Cheese
This is a very simple cheese recipe that makes a delicious, creamy cheese
that can be used in both savory and sweet dishes. Our family’s favorite dish
in the summer is fresh ricotta topped with ripe slices of strawberries and a
ribbon of local honey.
Don’t discard the whey (the liquid you strain out); it is an excellent
substitute for buttermilk and a nutritious addition to soups and stews. If
you really have lots, it makes a fine fertilizer for acid loving plants such
as blueberries and irises and trees such as pines.
- 4 cups of whole milk (lower fat milk is fine, but the end result is
not as unctuous)
- 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- ½ tsp salt
Heat in a saucepan over medium heat until almost boiling (about 190F if
you have a thermometer), stirring often. Turn off the heat and stir in the
lemon juice and salt. Stir gently to avoid breaking up the curds and let it
sit until cooled.
Once cooled to room temperature, pour into strainer lined with
cheesecloth. Let sit over a bowl for a few hours or overnight in the
refrigerator.
While you can serve the cheese as is, you may thicken it further by
wrapping it thickly in cheesecloth and pressing it for another several
hours. (If you don’t have cheesecloth and are willing to make a mess of a
dishcloth, you can do that too.)
Yield: 1-1/4 cups ricotta cheese
Michelle Branco is a freelance writer and blogger at
www.mamabear.ca. There, she writes
about mothering, breastfeeding, product safety, and food. Her much-put-upon
family serves as lab assistants, taste testers, and clean-up crew. She is
also an International Board Certified Lactation Consultant and when she’s
not at the keyboard or experimenting in the kitchen, she runs a private
lactation consultant practice at Latch Lactation.
| 
