We are all familiar with
Reduce Re-use and Recycle. Now we must Re-think too. Let's re-think
our expectations of lawns. The “golf-course syndrome” causes us to
have unrealistic ideals of a 100 percent weed-free lawn. (What will
we want next?: a cloud-free sky?) Let's lose the toxic, chemical
pesticides and accept occasional weeds as a
sign of a normal, non-toxic lawn. Quick-fix chemical solutions carry
a much-too-heavy health and environmental price. Prevention is
better than cure. Try these ten easy steps to prove it.
Routine Care
1. Mow high. If you only apply one
of these ten steps this year, let this be it! A lawn mowed high
discourages weed and insect invasion. Set cutting height at 2.5 or
three inches. Never scalp your lawn. Long grass blades stay much
stronger, prevent weeds from sprouting, shade the roots and prevent
drying of soil, and encourage longer, healthier roots. Mow
regularly, never removing more than one-third of the leaf length at
a time. use a hand mower and keep cutting blades sharp. This avoids tearing grass and
making it susceptible to disease. Don't mow wet grass, and mow in
the evening or on cloudy days.
2. Mulch clippings. Leave clippings on the lawn as mulch.
This reduces the need for organic fertilizer by 30 percent. In wet
periods, or if grass was very long, compost clippings instead. If
you are detoxifying a previously chemically-treated lawn, don't
mulch for a year or two or thatch may build up.
3. Water deeply. Lawns need about one inch of water once a
week, applied slowly during dry spells, preferably before 8 AM. Put
a can under the sprinkler and time how long it takes for an inch to
accumulate. That's how long to allow before moving the sprinkler
each time. Frequent, light sprinklings waste water and encourage
shallow roots.
4. Control weeds and insects ecologically. A healthy,
well-cared for lawn out competes most weeds. Check often for
stressed areas like bare spots (they invite weed invasion) and treat
promptly by eliminating the cause (such as heavy traffic). Overseed
when necessary (see step 9.) Remove occasional weeds by hand. For
persistent weed problems, get your soil professionally analyzed:
ideal soil pH is six to seven. Add lime or sulfur to modify pH. This
increases availability of plant nutrients and promotes beneficial
micro-organisms. Dishwashing soap and water sprayed in warm weather
is effective against most insect pests.
Seasonal Care
5. Rake.
Use a rake to gently remove thatch (compacted layer of clippings and
dead grass which prevents water from percolating to the roots). Do
this in late spring or early summer. Don't act too soon after the
thaw when the grass still feels spongy, or else the roots will be
damaged, but don't wait so late that heavy seeder weeds have
germinated.
6. Fertilize in spring. Many people will find this step
unnecessary, and some experts recommend fall fertilization only. But
if you want a really strong and pest-resistant lawn, apply (in
mid-May) slow-release, granular, organic fertilizer. Don't use
highly-soluble chemical ones, which leach natural soil nutrients,
stress the soil and grass, and may induce disease outbreaks. Organic
fertilizers include compost, manure, processed sewage, top dressing,
rock mineral fertilizer, bone meal, blood meal and kelp.
7. Aerate. Aeration is the process
of removing small plugs of earth to decrease soil compaction,
increase water retention capacities, and increase air circulation to
roots. It is best done in June (or the fall) to avoid times when
heavy seeder weeds germinate and may grow in the plug holes. You can
rent an aerator from a nursery or tool rental store.
8. Top-dress with compost. This is best done with
aeration, but it can be done any time between mid-June and the end
of August. If you don't have your own compost heap, buy composted
cow or sheep manure. Broadcast it at 100 pounds per 1000 square
feet.
9. Overseed. This gives excellent results when combined
with aeration and top-dressing. Stressed areas and bare patches
invite weed invasion. Loosen soil, spread compost or peat moss,
sprinkle grass seeds of a hardy species, press in and water.
10. Fertilize in fall. This is an essential step. We must
feed the soil. If you only fertilize once, fall is best. Use one of
the organic fertilizers mentioned in Step 6. Your lawn will have a
head start next season.
